One Sweet Inflatable SUP Bargain!

I know this isn’t how-to related at all but what the hey, it’s my wee blog and I can do with it as I want. So, via Ke Nalu, here’s a great big plug for a sale on the travel SUP that most people like the most, the ULI! All I can say is, woo woo, I want one! Price right now is less than a grand, a savings of more than 300 clams. They’re supposed to ride great (if differently) and if they didn’t weigh about 30 lbs (or if I was younger and stronger and, well, had the $), I’d be all over this deal.

If you’ve been considering an ULI, now might be the time to buy one. they’re having a sale that they call the “great Financial Crisis of 2008 Sale”. Pretty outstanding pricing. I’ve tried the ULI both in flatwater and in surf, and I was astonished at how good they are. Not what I expected. Don’t get me wrong–I’m not Steamroller–I’m not about to get rid of my boards and switch full time. But I do plan to buy one of these to travel with. Here’s a link:

Uli Boards - Financial Crisis Sale.

Uli Board Bargains | Ke Nalu

A Very Different SUP Paddle!

Just found this while going through some late December posts on Ke Nalu. It’s about a new flexy paddle being produced by the great Jimmy Lewis. Never heard of it before. Never heard of the concept behind it before, either. Sounds like it could be great. Or a bust. In any event, after Bill got used to it, sounds like he liked it a whole bunch.

Leave it to Jimmy to do it his own way. While everyone else is making very stiff carbon fibre shafts, Jimmy decided to add flex. Jimmy went through a lot of prototypes and a couple of different manufacturers to get a shaft with smooth flex along its length that is also extremely strong. The result is something you’ll have to try. Especially if you have beaten-up shoulders like mine or you’d like a little help catching waves.

un-flexed blade and then applying pressure to create a smooth curve, with the paddle still digging

The idea is this, to not only add some compliance to reduce the shock of paddling to your shoulders, back and arms, but also to extend the pull time when you’re pushing for a wave. The effect is most noticeable with a big blade, so Jimmy worked with

DW’s Perfect SUP Paddle Search!

As with SUP boards, there’s no one perfect paddle. But that doesn’t keep lots of us from a continuous search and try. It can get expensive, though. Which is why it’s great there’s someone like DW out there, who seems to buy more than most and always reviews his purchases on his blog, NC Paddle Surfer. His financial poverty is our increasing wealth of SUP knowledge. Thanks, DW!!!!! Now, on to his latest paddle report:

My take on paddles is constantly evolving.
Our very first paddles were from C4. At the time, my board was the Laird 12′1. I could not catch a wave worth a crap with that beast. It was my lack of skill, not the boards problem. The fast fix was a new paddle. I switched to the Surftech paddle, with a huge blade compared to the C4. It seemed to help. I became a fan of monster blades.
As my boards became smaller, the monster blade Surftech wasn’t feeling good anymore. I moved on to the Kialoa Shaka Pu’u. The smaller Shaka Pu’u was just what I needed as my boards continued to get smaller.
Next Kialoa released the even smaller Methane, so I cut my Shaka Pu’u blade down to match the Methane. Again this next step in my paddle progression seemed to suit my ever changing smaller boards.
This weekend Jacky demoed a C4 fiberglass paddle with colored blade. She raved about easy it pulled through the water. Easier than her 8" wide modified Kialoa. Yet the C4 she demoed was 8.5" wide. Paddle width doesn’t tell the real story about pull. This C4 had the least pull of any paddle she had ever tried. She loved it.
Next up, I tried the C4 paddle. I was shocked at how light the pull was compared to the Kialoa blade.
With Jacky on the 9′0, and me on the 9′3, these light pulling, smooth, C4 blades are the perfect compliment to shortboard SUPs.

NC Paddle Surfer

Bill’s New Paddle Edging How-to!

Once again, this is from Bill at Ke Nalu, and it’s as awesome a post as yesterday’s installment from him. This one shows a new twist on paddle edging. I like it. And I will do it. As soon as I find some hockey tape.

The Blade: There are three good reasons for guarding the blade. First, people have been badly cut with unguarded blades. Second, the blade can chip up your board. And third, the blade can be damaged by hitting it’s edge on hard stuff.

Door edging or commercial blade guard works nicely, but it’s a bit thick for my taste. Mastic tape is good, but it’s fragile, especially if you stretch it thin. What I do is put on a layer of mastic, stretched very tight to make it thin, and then cover it with hockey tape. Finally I add a layer of wax to protect the tape and rub it with a cloth to smooth it. You’d be surprised at the difference in abrasion resistance between waxed and unwaxed fabric tape. The end result is a thin protective edging that won’t mark your board, lasts a very long time, and looks great.

Prepping a Paddle | Ke Nalu

How to Prep a SUP Paddle!

This is an awesome post from Bill at Ke Nalu, about how to prep the grip area on your paddle. I haven’t done it like this but I’m going to. It sounds perfect.

Few things in SUP cause more controversy than paddle prep. Some folks like their shaft bare, some like padded shafts, some like wax, some like mastic tape. I’ve played with about every combination and I’ve hit on the perfect preparation for me. I suspect you’ll like it too, even if you’re a bare shaft fan.

I say that because I’m a bare shaft guy. I don’t mind a little wax, but I don’t like the shaft to be too sticky, and I don’t like it being larger, or having a soft grip. Nothing saps my hand strength faster than a soft grip.

But I also don’t like my hands to slip, and the least bit of sunblock or oil on my hands or the shaft and my paddling is compromised. Yes, I clean my hands with sand and give the shaft a scrub, but you can transfer goop from other places easily. This approach solves the problem, giving positive traction without softening or thickening the grip. Once it’s done it lasts for many months–you never have to rewax.

Uhmm….

Sorry about this, ladies, but the flow of how-to-SUP info seems to have slowed worldwide and, thus, I am forced doing post things I might otherwise think twice about; to wit:

More how-to later, I promise!

Paddle Use Basics (& More!)

This is a great instructional vid from Jim Terrell at Quickblade paddles. He covers lots of basic techniques in an easy-going informative way. I like it a lot. Pay special attention to his (all too brief) description of how to turn your board by getting low and sweeping your blade wwway out there. It’s at 3min35sec. Enjoy!

Your SUP Paddle Is Probably TOO Long!

The final bit of D. Parmenter wisdom is about paddle length. He’s got an interesting perspective but don’t take it as gospel. Lots of people think just a little bit longer is a whole lot mo’ better.

Wherever we go in the world, the most common sight we see is people using paddles that are way too tall for them. From San-O to Sydney, all too many SUB paddlers are reaching over their heads like children straining to reach the cookie jar atop the ‘fridge.
       Aside from squandering the mechanical advantage of the proper and efficient paddle stroke, using too tall a paddle sets you up for some sort of repetitive stress harm to your shoulders.
       While a general guideline states that the paddle should extend 5 or 6 inches over your head, some variability exists due to the thickness of your board, slight differences in paddling styles, and even the shape and angle of the paddle blade.
       Try standing on a bench with your paddle and take a few pantomime strokes; this way you can simulate the blade depth of your stroke and lets you see how high the top of the paddle goes overhead. Your top hand should be at the height of your forehead and nose when you push into your stroke. Any higher or lower and you will be suffering a power loss.
       Additionally, adjustable paddles, on which you can readily change the length of the paddle shaft, are great tools you can employ to zero in on the optimum paddle size for your board and style.

Stand Up Paddle Surfing Equipment by C4 Waterman | SUP Read Me | Paddle, Board, , Standup, Sub

What’s the BEST SUP Board to Learn on?

More words of wisdom from C4’s D. Parmenter (and another trick question, too):

What’s the Best SUB On Which To Learn — A Long Single-fin r a wide quad-fin or a short tri-fin, etc?
      Actually, the best board on which to learn is a borrowed board. By all means, learn on the biggest board you can find, but before committing to a purchase go out and demo everything you can get your hands on.
       If you can master the basics before you buy your own board, you will be more likely to end up with an SUB size and shape that won‘t hold you back when you begin to progress.
        Purchase an SUB with an eye on where your skill level will be two or three months from now——–not for the first few days when you are wobbling over the waters of your local inlet or lake.
       After all, there’s nothing worse than finally learning to crank a snapback while leaning on your blade, only to realize to do so on your 12’-plus leviathan will require a truss and two tugboats.

Stand Up Paddle Surfing Equipment by C4 Waterman | SUP Read Me | Paddle, Board, , Standup, Sub

Are Wider SUP Board Better?

Trick question, to which the quick answer is, "No," at least in the eyes of C4’s Dave Parmenter, who as one of surfing’s greats should know. Here’s what he had to say during a recent discussion of some of SUP’s most widely held misconceptions:

Simply put, excessive width is the poor man’s solution to stability.
There are other ways to grant considerable stability to an SUB. When the outline, rail volume, bottom contour, rocker, and rail shape are put together in the proper

configuration, an SUB can be amazingly stable even at 27” or 28” wide. And get this: All those boards you see in the racks with overly soft, round rails? Well, they can subtract 1 or 2 inches from a board’s stability quotient——one more reason why SUB widths are relative.
A narrower plan shape with a perfectly balanced set of design components will paddle straighter and easier and, of course, perform much more like a conventional high-performance surfboard.

Getting a Grip on Your Board!

Here’s an idea from PonoBill about holding onto your board in the soup. I used to use a small piece of knotted rope but broke two fingers when they got caught inside the loop. Think I’ll give Bill’s idea a go next. If any one here tries it, please feel free to report back in the comments section!

Q: I ride the 9′8" starboard sportech fish which has 2 x leash plugs installed. I have just fixed an old ankle strap tight onto the unused plug for hanging onto when getting battered by the whitewater or, if your leash snaps. I hope to
go in later this afternoon as it is small and glassy today. Has anyone else rigged up something similar?

Ponobill’s A: Yes, but here’s another idea. First of all, loop a piece of good line (like windsurfer downhaul line) through both plugs and connect your leash to that. In the unlikely event that you pull one leash plug out, the other should hold. A well installed leash plug is mighty stout, but stuff happens. If nothing else this distributes the pull to both plugs and reduces the likelihood of failure.
Don’t use a loop for the handle–you don’t want your hand caught. I used a piece of strap cut from a bad tiedown. I doubled it, passed it through the leash rope and then passed the strap through the doubled loop. I tied an overhand knot about ten inches from the rope, and then tied overhand knots in each of the ends. If you make even a flailing grab at this handle you’re likely to get enough purchase to slow the board before the wave rips it out of your hands. That’s often enough to keep it out of the pocket and get it onto the back of the wave. In most cases you’ll be able to hang on to the board. It’s really great when you’re getting pasted by head high whitewater, because you can breathe most of the time.
When I first did this I thought I made it too long, but it’s really good. this picture shows the ends without the overhand knots. they come out sometimes during the course of a day’s surfing. But you get the idea. Long is good. At this length the strap has no effect I can determine on how the board feels. Possibly a great surfer would feel it, but that ain’t me.

SUP rescue

Best $150 SUP Xmas Gift Ever!

Blane Chambers recently posted on the Zone about his new GoPro camera. Man, is that one sweet set up. Plaster it to the front of the board and you’ll be the hero of your own show. Check out the shots. Cool crazy angles. Beautiful.

Just picked up and installed the GoPro Camera.    We figured it would be a good way to document the epic days and get some cool shots.
Cost was $149 plus you have to buy the SD Memory card and batteries separate.    It takes AAA recharge types.    It comes with a sticky pad or you can use a FCS plug to install.    Tiny little thing.   Installed it onto my 10-6 and it is clear of the paddle when I swing it over the board.

5 MP that takes 56 min of video or 1900 pics every 2 seconds.        Its a good way to see what you are doing while paddling etc.     Another thing I noticed when loading the pics is this camera IS ALL ABOUT ME!    It even says on the mounting plate, "Be a Hero".    Its actually a little disturbing to see so many photos of yourself up close.      If you love yourself, you need this camera.    I can honestly say after going through 300+ pics I am sick of looking at my various degrees of monkey face.
Anyway, here’s the results of a quick session this morning.   Videos later. Today was all about finding position etc.   Camera is very easy to set, turn off and on etc.
Pics from the first test in early am conditions.

GoPro Surf Hero Board Mount Camera

New Online SUP Board Review Site!

This one’s pretty great, and you can find it here: CyberSUP - Online Stand Up Paddle Surfing . So far, Casso (the site’s owner operator) has only reviewed about 10 boards, but they are quality, indepth reviews. I’ve appended one below, but you really should go have a look at the site itself. He also reviews paddles. And has a how-to on suction cupping a camera to the nose of your board. Anyway, here’s his review of the PSH 10′6" All Arounder. I’m only going to feature a little bit of it, because I really want you to go have a look at his site.

A few days ago I took a near new (two surfs old) PSH 10’6” All Rounder for a few waves to see how it went. It was a demo board from Andrew at Balmoral Boards.
One word: Versatile.
The board is: 10’6” x 28 3/8” x 4 5/8”.
The PSH 10’6” is a nice looking board, clean lines, a semi rounded nose and nice tapered rocker at the nose and tail. If you’ve seen one of these boards in a photo, taken front on to the surfer, it looks impressive - same as when you pick it up from the nose and look at it down the stringer. The boxy rails add volume to the sides which can be difficult for a lighter surfer to bury the rail during a carving turn but, on the flipside, it creates more stability and a nice flat deck for comfort and control. This board was set up as a 2+1 with a nice timber centre fin with a little cutaway near the tip for that bit of extra flex.
I’ve ridden the PSH 10’ All Rounder recently and this board is very similar - just a bit more stable and a better paddler yet the 10’6” is almost as loose and manoeuvrable. I thought the 10’ PSH was a great all rounder - the 10’6” is even better - one might say: a real quiver killer.
I went out at Collaroy (on Sydney’s Northern Beaches) with 2 to 3 foot of swell running and an increasing onshore breeze. They were quite fat little waves, fairly long rides and there was a bit of chop around to make things tricky.

Some Paddle Length Theory ….

This comes via John Hibbard over at the Starboard forum. He knows his stuff, so it’s a good post to read.

Length is a personal thing really and you are doing the right thing by trying it at full length first. A ball park figure is to cut the paddle down to between 6-9 inches longer than you are tall.
Another way to do it is to turn the paddle upside down so it is standing on it’s handle. Hold the paddle in front of you and where the shaft starts to flare away into the blade that should be at about eye level.
The best advice is to use it for a while at full length (use insulating or Duct tape around the handle to hold it in place), see how you get on and then cut off a small amount of the shaft and use the paddle for a few times again (use tape to secure the handle again). Once you reckon you’ve got it right then use some 5 min epoxy to hold it in place.

The full length isn’t really going to hinder you in flat water as you are always generally standing up right and driving forward with a pretty straight body angle. It’s in the surf where too much length (!) will be apparent -

The Correct Paddle Length, Visually

Thanks to prolific poster DJ over at Seabreeze Forums!, we now have this visual approach to paddle length. Even DJ would agree, however, that a little shorter is a little better if you’re going to be using your SUP mainly in the surf. DJ says:

Because paddle blade size can vary and you want the blade fully dipped I like this system to find the right length for you.
DJ

Admin note: the illustration below comes from Starboard.

Seabreeze Forums! - Stand Up Paddle Paddle Length

The Perfect SUP: One Man’s Search

I’ve taken this post wholesale from csx355’s most excellent blog, http://csx355.blogspot.com/. In his SUP career, he’s owned a good number of boards, none of them perfect, which is the way it’s always going to be for everyone, most likely. But that doesn’t keep him from looking. This post details that search, it’s a great, instructive read that we can all learn from and nod our heads to, and it starts a little something like this:

It’s very simple - I want the perfect board. I want the board that will give me MOST of what I want in a single board and this post is going to be a bit of a brainstorming of the characteristics and traits that I like and dislike in the boards that I have and have ridden.

Read on for more of the search!

Great SUP Board Reviews

If you’re in the market for a new board, either beginner or more advanced, then probably the first stop you should make is not at your local SUP dealer’s showroom floor but at Ke Nalu’s online “Board Showcase” review of boards. Last time I looked it presented over 55 evaluations of SUP boards from, among others, Starboard, Naish, Angulo, PSH, ULI, Laird, Jimmy Lewis, C4, Oxbow and Amundson.

Here’s how the introduction on the index page goes: “Each board result has pictures of the board, basic specifications (taken from the manufacturer) an excerpt from the company website or marketing materials (edited for space and to manage the hype), evaluators comments and a summary comment from us. Each set of quotes indicates a different evaluator. … Our summary comment comes from reviewing the evaluation checkboxes and considering the weight and skill level of each rider. Each board was evaluated for paddling, surfing and cruising.”

Really good stuff, really worth checking out: Ke Nalu Board Showcase

D.I.Y. Paddle Edging

I think it’s pretty important to put edging on your paddle, to protect both the board and the paddle itself. You can buy automotive door-edge molding ("push on, self-adhering! protects & beautifies!") at a story like Autozone. The stuff is cheap and it works pretty well. Only problem is that over time it starts to come loose and flops around. That’s why I now use 3M mastic tape.

You can find it in the electrical department at Home Depot and the like. (And sometimes it’s hard to find, so keep on searching and don’t take no for an answer.) As Stoneaxe recently said over on the Starboard forum: "A 1 inch x 10 ft roll is about $7. I’ve had one application last about 2 months of heavy use. Peels off clean when you want to replace it. One roll will give you 2 maybe 3 applications." For a good idea of how to install the stuff, surf on over to Ke Nalu’s paddle protector article.

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